Unplanned Germany

Ironically, given my profession as a Project/Program Manager, the one solid conclusion that I reached during my travels was that plans are nice, but are unlikely to be realized exactly as intended. So I find myself in Germany rather than northern Spain drinking beer rather than Spanish wine. Very fine but unexpected. My German, I must point out is even worse than my Spanish, which us to say, non-existant.

My wonderful hosts, Wolfgang and Montse, have shown me all around their region of Bavaria in a sort of 'Camino light' tour. We've walked about 10km each day, visited beautiful churches, local breweries and eaten very well, thanks to Montse's exceptional cooking.  Turns out there is actually a path to Santiago from here, a mere 2850km away, or about 4 months walking. Maybe another year...

Pictures are (in reverse order it turns out) of the interior of a Rococo style basilica, Camino (or St. James way) waymarker, inside brewery with Wolfgang, famous Schlenkerla guest house/brewery in Bamberg,  old chapel (first built 1250) with Montse.

Odds and Ends

For my final Spanish Camino blog post, I have few, random observations about Spain from my Camino experience.

The Spanish economy is a mystery to me. Unemployment has been over 25% since 2008 yet at any given hour in any given bar/cafe/restaurant you will find people, often lots of them. Real estate prices have dropped over 50% since 2008, yet there are 'For Sale' signs on the most dilapidated, run-down, decrepit properties I have ever seen. Is everybody sharing a common illusion of economic wealth or do they just subscribe to the 'make the most of a bad situation' philosophy?

Accommodations were generally quite good and some were exceptional but one thing that seemed to be consistent was the inconsistency of the Spanish rating system. Two of the worst hotels I stayed in were rated 3* while a few of the best had no *s. Feedback from TripAdvisor or booking.com was much more reliable. Once in Galicia a new type of accommodation became available: Casa Rurals. These were similar to B&Bs without the breakfast. I stayed in one that could have been a former castle and another that likely began its life as a barn (pictured).

Regions in Spain had many more differences than I expected including different languages (Basque, Catalan, Castellano), different customs and different food. I loved the different Spanish wines, pinchos (kind of like mini tapas), seafood paella, grilled trout and sardines, thick Galician caldo soup, Santiago torte and so much more.  Alas, my love of eating surpassed my calorie burning walking and I have actually gained weight on this trip!

End of the world

It is tradition, apparently, to end ones Camino by continuing on to Finisterre and celebrating the end of wearing geeky hiking clothes by burning them. Purifying, symbolic and, I can report, extremely satisfying.

I've not checked my sources on this but it seems likely that before Columbus discovered America, the end of the world to Spaniards was Finisterre.  Looking west one sees the Atlantic ocean and nothing else. The Spanish equivalent of, say, Tofino. It also boasts the windy, rainy and foggy weather of Tofino - except on the day of our visit which was hot, sunny and incredibly lovely.

A visit to the beach, walk up to the lighthouse, symbolic fire & a fantastic seafood lunch was a decadent and wonderful way to end the Camino.

I have more to write about my Camino experience & will attempt to post some catch-up blogs over the next week while in Germany visiting my Camino companion, Wolfgang.

Churches

Yes! I have arrived in Santiago and the end of the Caminos. Well, technically one can continue on to Finisterre and beyond but the Santiago Cathedral and the grave of the Apostle St. James is the prime reason pilgrims have made this a 'destination Camino' for hundreds of years. In modern times pilgrims also travel for sport, adventure, tourism and a host of other reasons but for many, it seems, spirituality or religion remain the primary driver for their journey.

In that spirit, this blog features churches (and cathedrals and monestaries).

 According to my 'All Countries' app, 94% of Spanish people are Roman Catholic and, from what I have seen,  there are no shortage of places for them to worship. Until we reached the region of Galicia even the tiniest of towns, with current populations, for example, numbering less than 100, had a church in the center of town (village, hamlet) often with a stunning gold altarpiece.  Many of these dated from the 12th to 15th centuty. Perhaps this is where one can find some of the riches from the new world?

Galicia is definitely different. Poorer, with more agriculture and a visible Celtic influence. Churches have been fewer in number and more humble in construction and decor, although very lovely in a different way. Obviously there are exceptions to this and the Santiago Cathedral (not pictured) is one of these.

I hadn't intended to tour the Benedictine Monestary in Samos, but events transpired to make it possible and it was definitely worth a visit. The monestary is one of the oldest and largest in Spain and is quite amazing but what is most astonishing is that it is maintained by only 14 monks, 4 of whom are over 80!

Choices

After starting out many weeks ago on May 10, I am due to arrive in the fabled Santiago de Compostela tomorrow, June 10.  I feel a little like Dorothy on her way to Oz where all my questions will be answered.  Thus far,  I must report that the experience has been great but the epiphanies few.

Actually there are many different pilgrim routes to Santiago but even on the same route there are many choices to be made that can have a huge impact an individual's experience.  Lets start with mode of transport, a question asked of pilgrims in Rocancesvalles, our first stop in Spain. Many walk, some cycle, and a few, as offered on the questionnaire, ride horses.  Walking makes it easier to meet and chat with other walkers enroute but does contribute to the 'Camino limp', blisters and other more serious injuries that I've seen walkers sustain.

Choice of accommodation can also have a big impact.  I had thought that almost all pilgrims stayed in the cheap albergues (pilgrim hostels) that dot the route.  Turns out that all of the hotels I've stayed in have also been filled with pilgrims. Some of these have even booked through travel services that arrange for hotels, meals and luggage transport between stops. If I had known about (and could afford) this luxury service I'm sure I would have been tempted.

Some pilgrims do the Camino in stages or do only part of the Camino. Some travel in groups but many travel solo.  Some take buses or taxis when tired or during bad weather, others wouldn't think of doing so.

Doing the Camino 'my way' hasn't been as unusual as I thought it would be. And that's just fine with me!

Pictures are of the trail today lined with fragrant eucalyptus trees, the amazing hotel I stayed in last night, scenery from the Galician province where the rainbow portended daily rain showers and O'Cebreiro village.

The Way

As part of my trip preparation I spent hours reading and taking notes from John Brierley's classic Camino guidebook. I had imagined that following the Camino would require exceptional diligence and map reading skills, and perhaps at one time it did.  I can report, however, that following the Camino (at least so far) has been incredibly easy (and that my time would have been better spent learning Spanish).

For one thing, there are usually dozens of pilgrims ahead of me to follow. For another, I have been told that there has been a large influx of EU money in support of Camino improvements. While this has not resulted in the availability of bathroom faciluties along the trail, it does seem to have produced excellent signage and visible upgrades to many of the small and seemingly deserted villages along the route.   Finally, people seem very eager to help and will quickly make it known to you if you stray from the path. I assume this is done for the best of reasons and not to keep the oddly dressed pilgrims away from the hidden and best restaurants.

Today's walk took us to O'Cebreiro, a special place on the Camino and a tourist destination in its own right. The expansive views from the mountaintop village were hidden by the fog but it was still very interesting and almost magical.

Pictures today are of several examples of the many different types of waymarkers along the Camino.

The Path

One of the surprises for me on the Camino was the many different types of paths that comprise the trail. We've walked on paved roads, narrow stony paths, sandy and muddy trails, flat 'sendas' or walking paths that parallel highways. Some of these road conditions make it much harder for cyclists than hikers so if you're planning to cycle the Camino, be warned.

 I packed 2 pairs of running shoes thinking I could alternate each day. Turns out there is as good reason hiking boots as I've found my runners haven't really been great on the winding, ascending and descending large stony trails. Thank goodness for blister bandages and the inspiration of many older pilgrims who are gamely navigating the challenging trails with many more health issues to overcome than blisters.

Yesterday we were finally off the Meseta (plain) and back into the mountains. Beautiful but definitely more strenuous. Pictures are samples of the path from different parts of the Camino.

Necessities

While walking the Camino one falls into a rhythm: wake up early, dress, walk, stop in nearest town for breakfast, walk, stop in a town for lunch, walk, reach day's destination, find hotel, wash clothes, eat, sleep.  Pretty much the entire day is consumed with the basics: eat, walk, sleep. There really isn't anything more important than a good nights sleep, hot shower, dry clothes, food & healthy body/feet. A bonus is  the pleasure of companionship along the way. Is there really ever anything more important than these things?

Maslow and his famous hierarchy of human needs suggested that the physical needs must always be met before we can begin to contemplate ascending to higher levels of self actualization. On a more practical level, one of Napoleon's military maxims was that a soldier must never be without his knapsack and that this should be reduced to the smallest possible size. Good advice for pilgrims as well! It turns out that one doesn't really need very much, although as mentioned in an earlier post, style must be sacrificed for comfort.

Many have told me that the Camino us addictive and perhaps one of the reasons for this is the opportunity to shed the superfluous worries such as mortgage payments, bills, home repair, shopping, newspaper headlines, entertaining and so on that fill so much of our time.  I hope that you are all able to take some time today to look outside, take a deep breath and enjoy!

Pictures are of ruins of a pilgrims hospital, a hermito (hermit's dwelling) outside Villafranca, and an ancient cross by the side of the road in Redecilla Del Camino.

Waiting

Waiting. Always a part of life and so well characterized in the Dr. Seuss book 'The Places You'll Go'.  I have been waiting quite some time for a good internet connection combined with the energy and time to update my blog and finally, on a rainy day in the small town of Ledigos, that time has arrived.

Two days spent in Burgos were quite a treat. It is an incredibly lovely city with one of the largest and most beautiful/opulent cathederals in Spain.  Itis also very lively with many statues, restaurants and well-dressed people. It's not difficult to spot pilgrims in Burgos as even the best dressed of us are likely sporting walking shoes/sandals and hiking pants possibly topped off by a well worn sun hat.

Last Saturday afternoon the streets were filled with women, men and children  dressed equisitely and strolling around the the town visiting, dining on patios and just looking good. We thought perhaps that it was a holiday or special celebration but no, just a sunny Saturday afternoon in Spain.

We ended up with more time in Burgos than anticipated because poor weather made the mountain pass to St. Juan de Ortega potentially dangerous so we took a bus from Villafranca where we and many others had sought refuge from the storm.

Waiting for internet in Villafranca which never arrived and therefore was unable to use my credit card for the hotel leaving me with no cash, not even enough for the bus to Burgos. Friendly hotel staff provided a bottle of water and bus fare and I was on my way.

Waiting for the bus which, we were advised, could arrive anytime after 9:30.  Anytime turned out to be an hour later by which time so many people had arrived it seemed there wouldnt be enough seats. Boarding seems to be on a LIFO ( last in line first on bus) basis which meant that my very punctual group was going to have to wait for another several hours. Raised voices, lots of hand gesturing, a seat recount and we all boarded. I may not complain about city transit in Winnipeg and Victoria for quite some time.

Pictures of Burgos follow including cathedral & busy Saturday streets.

Pamplona redux

Back in Pamplona after bidding adios to Corinne in Bilbao.  She is flying to Paris tonight and then home to Winnipeg and I'm resuming my walk on the Camino tomorrow morning. Safe travels, Corinne, I will miss your companionship.

Both Pamplona and Bilbao are lovely, lively cities featuring the original older sections with their glorious churches, narrow cobbled streets and traditional restaurants. I'd definitely recommend a visit if the opportunity presents itself. Although I'm not religious, it is hard not to appreciate the lavish, ornate interiors and beautiful architecture. Picture follows of the Iglesia de San Cernin in Pamplona.

Bilboa also contains some incredible modern architecture including our own hotel and, most notably, the Guggenheim museum. I'm sure you've all seen pictures of the Guggenheim and the famous sculptures on it's grounds, but I can't resist including the Anish Kapoor which reminds me of his wonderful Cloud Gate in Millenium Park, Chicago, near my old stomping grounds (many years ago).  Plus it's a great contrast with the church interior.  Wonder what sculpture developments there will be in the next 500 years?

Tomorrow's destination is the tiny town of Puente la Reina, about 24km away .

By the way, I am happy to answer any questions you may have about the Camino, or at least answer based on my experiences.  I really appreciate your interest in my journey and it feels good knowing that I'm not alone ( at least in spirit ).

A brief update

We've finished our first 3 days of walking & in addition to the fact that I've been absolutely exhausted every evening, we've not had good enough internet until today for me to make any posts. This one will need to be brief as we need to check out of our hotel shortly.

St. Jean Pied de Port was our starting point for the Camino & is a charming little village that manages to support the swarms of Camino pilgrims & numerous French vacationers without turning into a postcard and ice cream selling tourist trap. The old, walled city is a UNESCO heritage site and houses the pilgrims office where we received our 'credentials' that will be stamped in towns that we visit along our journey.

Alas, I am out of time now but will post this in case I need to wait several more days for a good connection.

In brief: we made it to Pamplona. The walk over the Pyrenees was brutal but incredibly beautiful as has been much if the scenery along the way.

We are off today by bus to Bilbao and I'll resume the walk in Pamplona on my own in 2 days.

Pictures follow of St Jean, Corinne & I on day 2 of the walk ( smiles or grimaces? You decide) and a beautiful bridge over the Rio Arga, one if many we crossed on day 3.

Bordeaux, Medoc and Biarritz

Don't all these places sound exotic? They do to me and now I can report that Corinne and I have now visited them all. True, our visit to Bordeaux comprised lunch, the train station & picking up our rental car but one should never underestimate lunch. Especially in France.

We stayed in a beautiful chateau in the Medoc, savoured the most wonderful meal ever at Le Savoie, ate a delicious 4 course meal with wine for €15 at an adorable family owned restsurant, drove through miles of glorious vineyards and bumbled into an amazing tour of a Haut Medoc winery.

Bumbled? Well, we were probably less than graceful when we barged into the vineyard offices by mistake. Nonetheless the charming and knowledgable Vincente gave us a wonderful tour and shared a couple of glasses of his fantastic wine with us. Tip for those of you who didn't know: 2010 is a fantastic year for Medoc wine and 2013 will be pretty poor. Now go and impress your friends.

After a lovely drive chauffered by the calm and capable Corinne down the west coast of France we're now relaxing in beautiful Biarritz. Off to St. Jean Pied-de-Port tomorrow, our last stop before we begin the Camino.

Pictures below are of our chateau hotel (which also happens to be as winery), the tasting deck at 'Vincent's vineyard' and the beach at Biarritz.

Paris: wine, men and art

Besides the metro, the best value in Paris is wine.  It's about the only item that seems to be less expensive than in Canada & the quality is, of course, excellent. Corinne & I have been trying to rack up our savings by drinking as much as possible.

We also couldn't help but notice the French men & I've included two fine examples: one viewing the Eiffel Tower in the buff from Jardins du Trocadero & the other sunning in the gardens of the Musee Rodin ( which, by the way, I loved).

OK, yes they are statues which brings me to the incredible art in Paris  . We enjoyed visiting 2 galleries and a contemporary art show and although we didn't have time to visit the works inside The Louvre, the exterior of the building at sunset was a work of art itself. Photo below captures the reflection of The Louvre in a still pond with the corner of the famous glass pyramid.

Is there anything in Paris that isn't beautiful?